Herb Growing Tips

What Conditions Does Dill Need to Grow Successfully

Close-up of sunlit dill fronds growing outdoors in rich soil, with feathery green leaves in focus.

Dill needs at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day, well-drained slightly acidic soil (pH around 5.5 to 7.0), and consistent moisture of about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. It's not a fussy herb, but it does bolt fast in heat and struggles in waterlogged soil or deep shade. Get those three basics right and you'll have harvestable leaves in about 6 to 8 weeks from seed.

The core growing requirements: light, temperature, and soil type

Sunlit dill growing in an outdoor bed with a small thermometer beside the plants

Dill is a full-sun plant. It wants 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily, and it genuinely thrives with more. Partial shade (2 to 4 hours of sun) is not enough. Plants grown in too little light get leggy, produce fewer oils in their leaves, and bolt even faster when temperatures climb. If you're choosing between a slightly shadier or slightly sunnier spot, always go sunnier with dill.

Temperature matters a lot for two reasons: germination and bolting. Seeds germinate best when soil temperature is between 65 and 70°F, and sprouts typically appear in 7 to 14 days under those conditions. Once plants are established, dill handles moderate warmth well, but once you hit the high 90s°F consistently, heat stress kicks in and the plant rushes toward flowering and seed set rather than producing lush foliage. Longer days combined with high temperatures are the main triggers for early bolting.

For soil type, dill is fairly adaptable. It grows well in most garden soils as long as drainage is decent. What it can't tolerate is soggy, compacted, or waterlogged ground. The ideal is a well-drained loamy soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH in the 5.5 to 7.0 range and a reasonable amount of organic matter worked in. Interestingly, soil that is too rich in nitrogen can actually push leafy growth at the cost of flavor, so you don't want to go overboard on feeding.

Watering dill: how much, how often, and how not to overdo it

Dill is not a heavy water user. The target is about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, applied in one or two waterings once the plant is established. During hot stretches, you may need to bump that up slightly. The goal is consistently moist soil, not wet soil. If you stick your finger an inch into the ground and it still feels damp below that point, hold off watering. The top of the soil can look dry while the root zone still has adequate moisture.

Drainage is just as important as the watering schedule itself. Dill sitting in poorly drained soil will develop weak roots, yellow lower leaves, and poor overall vigor. If your garden bed tends to stay wet after rain, raise it slightly or work in compost and coarse sand to improve drainage before planting. Mulching around established plants is a good move: it keeps the soil moisture more even and reduces how often you need to water, especially in summer heat.

Soil prep, pH, and whether to fertilize

Before planting, work 2 to 3 inches of compost into your bed to a depth of about 8 to 10 inches. This improves drainage in clay soils, improves moisture retention in sandy soils, and adds the organic matter dill likes. If you've never tested your soil pH, it's worth doing once. A simple test kit will tell you if you're in the 5.5 to 7.0 range. Most garden soils that have been amended with compost over a few seasons will be in that window already.

For in-ground dill, heavy feeding is rarely necessary and can work against you. A moderate compost amendment before planting is usually all you need for a season. Overly rich, nitrogen-heavy soil produces aggressive leafy growth, but can dilute the aromatic oils that make dill flavorful. If you're growing in containers (more on that below), a liquid fertilizer at half the label strength every 4 to 6 weeks keeps plants productive without pushing too much soft growth.

Planting dill: seeds, depth, spacing, and timing

Close-up of hands placing dill seeds into shallow soil in a prepared garden row.

Dill has a long taproot that doesn't transplant well, so always direct sow seeds where you want the plants to grow. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and space them about 2 to 3 inches apart within the row. Once seedlings are up and established, you'll thin them to around 12 inches apart to give each plant room to mature. Don't skip thinning; crowded dill gets weak and bolts faster.

For timing, sow dill outdoors after your last frost date when soil temperatures have reached at least 60°F. In most temperate zones, that means late spring. Dill also tolerates a light frost once established, so in mild climates you can sow again in early fall for a second season. For continuous harvest, stagger your sowings every 2 to 3 weeks rather than planting everything at once (more on this under succession planting below).

At 65 to 70°F soil temperature, expect seedlings to emerge in 7 to 14 days. If soil is cooler than that, germination can stretch to 21 days. Keep the seedbed lightly moist during this window. Don't let it dry out completely between waterings, but don't saturate it either.

From sprout to harvest: thinning, weeding, and staying productive

Once seedlings are a few inches tall, thin them to about 12 inches apart by snipping extras at the soil line rather than pulling them (pulling disturbs neighboring roots). From that point on, the main tasks are keeping weeds out, maintaining moisture, and watching for the first signs of flowering.

Around 6 weeks after a good stand develops, you can start harvesting stems and leaves from the oldest, outermost portions of the plant. This is also when you want to start pinching or pruning regularly. The more you harvest leaves and trim back flowering stems, the longer you delay bolting and the more foliage you get. You can harvest green dill foliage anytime during the growing season right up until those umbrella-shaped flower clusters fully open. Once flowers open, leaf quality and flavor shift and the plant is putting its energy into seed production instead.

If you want dill seed for pickling or saving, let some plants go to flower. Cut flower stalks just before the seeds begin to ripen and turn tan. Harvest the full seed heads when they turn brown to collect seeds. Having a few plants designated for seeds and others managed for leaves is the most practical approach.

Troubleshooting: bolting early, yellowing leaves, and slow germination

Dill is bolting way too fast

This is the most common dill complaint and it usually comes down to heat and day length. Dill is a long-day plant, meaning it's triggered to flower when days are long and temperatures are high. If you sow in late spring in a warm climate, you may only get 4 to 5 weeks of leaf production before the plant shoots up and flowers. The fix is earlier sowing (as soon as the ground is workable), choosing bolt-resistant varieties labeled 'slow bolt,' regular harvesting to redirect the plant's energy, and succession sowing every few weeks rather than one large planting.

Leaves are yellowing

Yellow lower leaves on dill are often a drainage or overwatering problem. Waterlogged soil starves roots of oxygen, and the lower foliage goes yellow first. Check that your soil drains well and that you're not watering on a fixed schedule regardless of soil moisture. If drainage is fine but plants still look pale and weak overall, a light feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer can help, especially in containers where nutrients flush out more quickly with regular watering.

Seeds aren't germinating or germination is very slow

Hand holding a soil thermometer in a small dill seed bed with damp soil and a few emerging seedlings

Slow or failed germination almost always comes back to cold soil. If soil temperature is below 60°F, dill seeds may sit dormant for weeks. Use a soil thermometer and wait until temperatures are consistently in the 65 to 70°F range. Also check that seeds are only 1/4 inch deep, not buried too far. Old seeds lose viability quickly, so use fresh seed each season if possible. If seeds are fresh, soil is warm, and moisture is consistent, you should see sprouts within 7 to 14 days.

Weak, leggy, or poor-flavor plants

Leggy dill that falls over or has little aroma is almost always a light problem. If plants are stretching toward the sky and looking thin, they need more sun. Relocate container plants to a sunnier spot or reassess the in-ground bed for shade from trees or buildings. Overcrowding can also produce weaker plants, so make sure you've thinned to proper spacing. NDSU Extension notes that dill actually does better in soil that is not overly rich, so if you've loaded up on fertilizer, ease off.

Container vs in-ground: which works better for dill

FactorIn-GroundContainer
Root spaceUnlimited taproot depthNeeds 12-inch-deep pot minimum
WateringMore forgiving, dries slowerDries out faster, needs closer monitoring
Soil controlRequires bed prepUse quality potting mix, easy to customise pH
MobilityFixed locationMove to follow sunlight or bring indoors
FertilizingCompost amendment usually enoughHalf-strength liquid feed every 4 to 6 weeks
CapacityCan grow many plants at once3 plants per 2 to 3 gallon container
Bolting riskCan shade-manage with spacingCan reposition, but heat in small containers accelerates bolting

Both work well if you respect dill's taproot. The biggest container mistake is going too shallow. A pot shorter than 12 inches will restrict root development and produce a weak, short-lived plant. For containers, a 2 to 3 gallon pot with 3 plants is a practical setup. The advantage of containers is mobility: you can chase sunlight and bring plants indoors briefly if an unexpected heat wave threatens to trigger bolting ahead of schedule. If you're growing dill primarily for cooking and want maximum leaf production over the season, containers give you more control. For bigger yields and seed production, in-ground is the easier, lower-maintenance option.

Seasonal timing and succession planting for a continuous harvest

A single sowing of dill gives you roughly 6 to 8 weeks of productive leaf harvest before the plant flowers and declines. To keep dill on the table all season, stagger your sowings every 2 to 3 weeks from early spring through midsummer. As one batch starts to flower, the next is just hitting its peak leaf production.

In most temperate climates, the ideal windows for dill are early to mid spring (as soon as soil hits 60°F after the last frost) and again in late summer to early fall when temperatures begin to drop back below peak summer heat. That late-season sowing often produces some of the best-flavored dill because cooler temperatures slow bolting significantly. In very warm climates like the deep South, focusing sowings on spring and fall and skipping peak summer planting altogether is the most productive approach.

If you're comparing dill's care to other herbs in the same family or category, its light and soil needs are broadly similar to mint in terms of wanting consistent moisture, but dill is actually more sun-demanding and much less tolerant of shade than mint. If you are also wondering whether mint grows flowers, the answer depends on how it is grown and when it is allowed to mature mint growth and flowers. Mint's conditions and spreading habits are a different kind of management challenge altogether. Mint has different care needs than dill, so if you're wondering what nutrients mint needs to grow, check the mint-specific guide for a direct nutrition checklist. Mint grows best in steady warmth, so timing your sowing and protecting it from heat stress matters for healthy growth. With dill, the seasonal game is mostly about outsmarting bolting through timing and regular harvesting, and once you have that rhythm down, it's a straightforward and rewarding herb to keep growing.

FAQ

How can I tell if my dill is getting too much shade, even if it looks green?

If it’s leaning or growing tall with wider spacing between leaf nodes, it’s usually missing enough direct sun. Aim for at least 6 to 8 hours of straight sun, not filtered light, and rotate containers or trim nearby foliage that blocks morning sun.

Should I fertilize dill, and how do I avoid reducing its flavor?

For in-ground beds, a light compost amendment is typically enough, skip heavy feeding. If you use fertilizer, choose a balanced option at low rate (especially for containers) because excess nitrogen can boost leafy growth while dulling the aromatic oil intensity.

Can I grow dill indoors, and what changes for light and watering?

Yes, but indoors you must provide strong light close to the plant (often via grow lights), since window sun usually won’t reliably hit 6 to 8 hours of direct exposure. Keep the soil evenly moist but ensure drainage, because containers indoors dry unevenly and waterlogged mixes can yellow lower leaves quickly.

What’s the best way to water dill during hot weather without causing waterlogging?

Water deeply in one or two sessions, then check moisture before watering again by feeling the soil about an inch down. In heat, dill still prefers moist not soggy conditions, so use mulch to steady evaporation but confirm your bed drains after heavy watering or rain.

Why did my dill bolt early, even though I planted after the last frost?

Early bolting commonly happens when temperatures jump quickly into sustained high heat plus long days. To reduce risk, sow earlier while conditions are cooler, harvest outer leaves regularly, and consider bolt-resistant or “slow bolt” varieties if your summers are fast and hot.

How deep should I plant dill seeds, and does seed depth affect germination failures?

Keep seeds shallow, about 1/4 inch deep. If you bury them deeper, they often struggle in cooler or drying soil, leading to slow or patchy emergence even when you think the timing and moisture are correct.

Why are my dill seedlings pale or weak overall, not just yellow lower leaves?

Yellow lower leaves usually point to drainage or overwatering, but pale and weak whole plants can mean nutrients are lacking (more common in containers). Try a light balanced liquid feed at reduced strength, and double-check that the pot has ample drainage holes and the mix is not staying saturated.

Is it normal for dill to have a taproot and not transplant well, and what should I do instead?

Yes, dill’s long taproot makes transplanting risky and can stall growth. Direct sow where it will mature, then thin by snipping at the soil line rather than pulling, which prevents disturbing neighboring roots.

How do I extend dill harvest if I already have bolting flowers starting?

Harvest leaves from the outer growth and remove flowering stems before umbrella clusters fully open to redirect energy toward foliage. If only a few stems are bolting, you can keep leaf production longer while the rest of the plant continues growing.

What’s a simple succession plan if I want dill through both spring and early fall?

Start with early spring sowings as soon as soil reaches about 60°F, then continue every 2 to 3 weeks until midsummer. For late-season harvest, sow again in late summer as temperatures cool, so the next batch reaches peak leaf production before heat triggers flowering.

Citations

  1. Dill grows best with at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  2. Alabama Cooperative Extension advises planting dill in full sun (6–8 hours).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  3. Partial shade guidance from Penn State Extension: “Partial shade” is roughly 2–4 hours of sun per day.

    Planting in Sun or Shade | Penn State Extension - https://extension.psu.edu/planting-in-sun-or-shade/

  4. UMN Extension notes dill’s site should provide 6–8+ hours of direct sunlight daily, implying that partial shade (less sun) is outside dill’s best-light conditions.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  5. Utah State University Extension: dill is best in full sun, and longer day lengths/higher temperatures increase oil content in leaves (but hot temperatures reduce seed production).

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  6. Utah State University Extension: hot temperatures (+95°F) decrease dill seed production (a proxy that heat pushes dill toward stress/reproductive behavior).

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  7. USU Extension: dill germination time is typically 7–21 days depending on soil temperature.

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  8. Iowa State University Extension’s germination table lists dill at 65–70°F with 7–14 days to germinate.

    Germination Requirements for Annuals and Vegetables | Iowa State University Extension - https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/germination-requirements-annuals-and-vegetables

  9. Backwoods Energy seed germination temperature chart lists dill germination across many temperatures (including 60–70°F region commonly used for germination).

    Seed Germination Temperature Range (°F) Chart (includes dill) | backwoodsenergy.org - https://www.backwoodsenergy.org/assets/files/Seed-GerminationTemperatureChart.pdf

  10. UMN Extension: dill grows best in well-drained, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  11. Utah State University Extension (dill-in-the-garden): “Most soils in Utah are suited to dill” provided other culture conditions fit (implying dill is adaptable if drainage is adequate).

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  12. University of Minnesota Extension provides soil pH context generally useful for gardens: most plants do well when soil pH is slightly acidic to neutral, roughly pH 5.5–7.0 (general fertilizer/plant nutrient guidance).

    Quick guide to fertilizing plants | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/quick-guide-fertilizing-plants

  13. Penn State Extension explains soil pH concepts and that many plants do well in moderately suitable pH ranges; it highlights typical “most plants” pH guidance in extension contexts (pH measurement basics).

    Understanding Soil pH | Penn State Extension - https://extension.psu.edu/understanding-soil-ph

  14. UMN Extension: dill should be planted in well-drained, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter—supporting the drainage + acidity requirements for good growth.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  15. Utah State University Extension water guidance for vegetables (herbs category): dill requires about 1–1½ inches of water applied weekly and is “not a big water user,” with “one or two irrigations per week once established.”

    Water Recommendations for Vegetables (includes dill) | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/water-recommendations-for-vegetables.pdf

  16. UMN Extension watering concept: water so plants have enough moisture; the top inch may be dry while the soil below is still somewhat moist.

    Watering the vegetable garden | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/how/watering-vegetable-garden

  17. Alabama Cooperative Extension: keep soil consistently moist but not saturated; use mulch to retain moisture (from dill growing card).

    Dill Growing Card (ANR-2876) | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/ANR-2876-JJ_GMGM_Cards_Dill_120924L.pdf

  18. Alabama Cooperative Extension: apply 1–2 inches of water each week and more during hot summer days (dill card / guidance).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  19. Alabama Cooperative Extension: thin/prune guidance after establishment—once dill has a good stand after about 6 weeks, prune stems with leaves from the oldest portion of the plant (also supports ongoing leaf harvest management).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  20. UMN Extension: for container or indoors, dill can be fed with liquid fertilizer at one-half label strength every 4–6 weeks.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  21. UMN Extension general nutrient guidance: most fruits/vegetables grow best when pH is slightly acidic to neutral (about 5.5–7.0).

    Quick guide to fertilizing plants | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/quick-guide-fertilizing-plants

  22. UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY EXTENSION: dill for leaf production—growing conditions include sun and soil prep; germination is 7–21 days depending on soil temperature; implies do not overfeed seedlings and keep conditions stable for germination.

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  23. Alabama Cooperative Extension: sow dill seeds directly into the soil and plant 1/4 inch deep.

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  24. Alabama Cooperative Extension: sow dill seeds 2–3 inches apart within rows (within-row spacing guidance).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  25. Alabama Cooperative Extension container note: 3 plants per 2–3 gallon container (spacing per container size).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  26. Alabama Cooperative Extension: 1/4 inch deep direct sowing; sowing directly (dill has taproot sensitivity commonly noted in many guides—this card focuses on depth/placement).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  27. Iowa State University Extension: dill germination is listed at 7–14 days (table).

    Germination Requirements for Annuals and Vegetables | Iowa State University Extension - https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/germination-requirements-annuals-and-vegetables

  28. Iowa State University Extension: dill optimum germination temperature listed as 65–70°F.

    Germination Requirements for Annuals and Vegetables | Iowa State University Extension - https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/germination-requirements-annuals-and-vegetables

  29. UMN Extension: harvest green dill foliage anytime during the growing season until the umbrella-like flower clusters open.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  30. UMN Extension: to harvest seeds, cut flower stalks just before seeds begin to ripen and turn tan (timing helps manage seed set vs leaf harvest).

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  31. Utah State University Extension: harvest dill for best flavor when flowers begin to open; and dill seed is harvested after flower heads turn brown (two-stage management).

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  32. UMN Extension: for containers/indoors, liquid fertilizer at half label strength every 4–6 weeks.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  33. Alabama Cooperative Extension: once dill has a good stand after about 6 weeks, prune stems with leaves from the oldest portion of the plant (in-season leaf-management step).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  34. Garden guides reference: dill needs a deep container because it has a long taproot; one source says shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space.

    Care Of Dill In Pots - How To Grow Dill In Containers | Gardening Know How - https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/herbs/dill/potted-dill-plant-care.htm

  35. Garden guides reference: example container guidance given as 12-inch-deep pot with moist potting soil (notes deep root space requirement).

    How To Grow Dill In A Pot | GardenGuides.com - https://www.gardenguides.com/12515401-how-to-grow-dill-in-a-pot/

  36. Alabama Cooperative Extension: container guidance—3 plants per 2–3 gallon container (and sow 1/4 inch deep).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  37. Backwoods: (general) suggests germination typically improves around 60–70°F; consistent with extension tables, supporting container temperature stability.

    Seed Germination Temperature Range (°F) Chart (includes dill) | backwoodsenergy.org - https://www.backwoodsenergy.org/assets/files/Seed-GerminationTemperatureChart.pdf

  38. UMN Extension (site + light + soil) implies avoiding stressors: dill prefers well-drained slightly acidic soil; insufficient drainage increases stress and can contribute to poor growth/weak plants.

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  39. USU Extension: dill germination takes 7–21 days depending on soil temperature (slow/failed germination often indicates soil is too cool).

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  40. Iowa State University Extension: dill germination table specifies dill germination 7–14 days at 65–70°F (cool soil can extend germination).

    Germination Requirements for Annuals and Vegetables | Iowa State University Extension - https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/germination-requirements-annuals-and-vegetables

  41. USU Extension: dill leaf productivity timing—harvest generally 6–8 weeks after sowing (supports planning for “productive window” before bolting/flowering).

    How to Grow Dill in Your Garden | USU Extension - https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/dill-in-the-garden.php

  42. Alabama Cooperative Extension: prune stems about 6 weeks after establishment; then continue harvest management by harvesting foliage until flowers open (ongoing leaf-production strategy).

    Grow More Dill | Alabama Cooperative Extension System - https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/grow-more-dill/

  43. UMN Extension: harvest foliage “until the umbrella-like flower clusters open,” a practical bolting/delay trigger for leaf harvest (once flowers begin, leaf quality typically shifts).

    Growing dill in home gardens | UMN Extension - https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-dill

  44. University of Oregon State/OSU PDF (long-day concept reference in science context): includes dill in a list of long-day photoperiodism examples, supporting that day-length can influence flowering/bolting.

    Five Plants with Long- Day Photoperiodism (includes dill) | Oregon State University Extension - https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/54611/five-plants-long-day.pdf

  45. NDSU Extension: dill grows best from seed in full sun and a well-drained soil that is not overly rich; seedlings appear between 10 and 14 days (helps explain weak growth if soil is too rich or conditions are wrong).

    Field to Fork: Dill | NDSU Agriculture Extension - https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/field-fork-dill

  46. NDSU Extension: seedlings appear between 10 and 14 days (supports diagnosing slow germination as temperature/moisture issues).

    Field to Fork: Dill | NDSU Agriculture Extension - https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/field-fork-dill

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